NEWSLETTER 10
October 2024: Japanese well-made wardrobe staples, a Farringdon night and Amsterdam vintage
STYLE: A LOOK AT ALLEVOL
In an industry where heritage is often just a marketing angle, some brands still believe clothes should tell a story. Allevol is one of them. This month, I (Nils here) had the opportunity to take a closer look at their collection.
Founded in 2005 by vintage collector Taka Okabe, who also helms London's Clutch Café, the brand has carved out a niche in reproducing mid-century American sportswear and workwear with a focus on traditional production methods. Beyond nostalgia, it’s also about preserving manufacturing techniques that prioritise quality over efficiency.
This quiet obsession with well-made garments is embodied in their signature sweatshirt. Taka spent years tracking down a Japanese factory capable of reproducing the fabric from a vintage US Navy sweatshirt in his collection. The key here is loopwheel construction - a traditional spinning technique where cotton naturally spirals down with gravity, instead of being stretched by modern machines. These machines were the standard from the 1920s to 1960s, until manufacturing methods gave way for efficiency and cost; they’re now slowly running extinct in our era of mass production. The result is immediately apparent in the hand of the fabric - incredibly soft yet substantial, with a seamless body that retains its shape through repeated wears and washes.
Their t-shirts, produced in Osaka on vintage circular knitting machines, follow the same philosophy. The collar sits high and tight, a detail that's rarely executed correctly today.
The Allevol denim line is built around late 1960s silhouettes that hit that sweet spot - straight through the leg with a subtle taper, neither too slim nor too full. Indigo and ecru are obvious year-round staples; but I enjoyed the black denim as it’s something I recently found myself wearing more of. The brown corduroy is a perfect seasonal alternative.
The women's 'Nana Nana' (77) jean, inspired by 1950s “Lady Levi's” popularised by Marilyn Monroe, fills a surprising gap: quality Japanese denim for women is somehow remarkably hard to find. Georgina loved the cut; and interestingly enough I found myself enjoying the high rise and full leg on me too!
Completing the collection are English bridle leather belts (black horsebit version firmly on the Christmas wish list) and select outerwear pieces. All can be found at Clutch Café, which remains one of the few stores in the city that understands this category of clothing.
KITCHEN: CLOTH AND SPACE TALK
Last weekend, we embraced the allure of some fresh neighbourhood gems and popped over to Cloth and Space Talk in Farringdon.
Cloth is the creation of wine aficionados Joe Haynes and Ben Butterworth, joined by chef Tom Hurst (formerly of Lasdun, Levan, and Brawn fame). Imagine the charm of Andrew Edmunds—Cloth feels so rooted in its Grade II listed home, it’s almost hard to believe it's only been around for a few months. Maybe it's the cozy, lived-in ambiance or the fact that the building itself survived the Great Fire of 1666.
The venison with roasted figs and radicchio was a high note, followed by a crab tortellini in a shellfish bisque. All washed down with a minerally Hungarian white. Their three-course prix-fixe lunch for £29 during the week might just be the steal of the century.
Afterward, per our friend Jonah's recommendation (thank you, J!), we wandered up to Space Talk. A newly opened listening bar on St John Steet. Their mantra—sound, drinks, dining—is simple and spot-on. No photos allowed makes it feel like a little slice of Soho House twenty years ago: good drinks, beautifully-designed ambiance, and prime people-watching.
ART: ANTIQUES IN OCTOBER
If you are on the hunt for some antiques (affordable and/or non-affordable), we happened upon Lapada last weekend in Berkeley Square following PAD earlier in the month. One to keep an eye on in 2025 for inspiration and maybe a treasure or two.
Slightly further afield, we ventured to The Old Cinema in Chiswick looking for some new pieces for our home. Its a bit of a maze and hit or miss (as are a lot of antique shops) but has a similar feel to Alfie’s Antiques (an absolute favourite spot in London!) with more furniture. Favourite finds were a silver tulipiere vase and burl wood console tables.
Studio Mantel opened their permanent space this month, just off London Fields on Wilton Way. Stop by to get a glimpse of founder Sadie's eye for Art Deco and modernist pieces spanning home decor and jewellery. Similar to Two Poems in Hampstead, you have to be quick because pieces go fast in this treasure trove.
TRAVEL: AN AMSTERDAM VISIT
Earlier in the month I (Nils) paid a short and overdue visit to Amsterdam to meet up with old friends Marcos & Stian. Three vintage stores (menswear) that I hadn’t heard of until getting there really stood out:
Concrete Matter - for curated high-quality sportswear, workwear, and military pieces. They also sell new clothes but the vintage is the star of the show.
CKX Studio - for rare denim and workwear as well as a decent collection of Native American jewellery. Tucked in a quiet side street.
Mood Indigo - for the impressive Western collection and all-round extensive collection of Made in USA workwear.
Food-wise I was well tipped by friend of this Substack, Darren; here are a few picks to add to your map:
Entrepot - set menu dinner and a gorgeous bottle of Jura wine
Officina - design-led canteen and Japanese teas
Ulmus Bakery - flawless gluten fest
Bar Centraal - natural wine bar & small plates, a novel combo
Collins - for Sunday morning brunch
4850 - for La Cabra coffee and a mean cardamom bun
And finally a cool concept store-cum-guesthouse-cum-canteen worth the visit that my beloved made me stop by: Carmen Amsterdam.