TRAVEL GUIDE: EGYPT

Dreams of Indiana Jones finally came true (minus one Harrison Ford)

As a child I (Georgina here) dreamt of becoming an archaeologist. I would pour myself over books on ancient Egypt with my grandfather and devour Agatha Christie’s ‘Death on the Nile.’ Meanwhile, Nils’ dreams of Egypt were cemented by ‘Asterix & Obelix: Mission Cleopatre’ (a reference for the French readers - coucou!)

Years ago, when we spotted in the Sunday papers this article about Nour el Nil’s sailboat cruises on the River Nile, we both instantly fell under the spell! We became fixated on going, and eventually made it happen. We will never make justice to the magic of the experience, but let us at least make a start with our own SKAT guide to Egypt around the itinerary we followed. 

A general rule before we start: trusted local drivers and guides will make your life easier. We’d certainly recommend tapping on local knowledge wherever you can. The sites come to life so much more when someone can talk you through what you are looking at. Hotels can sometimes suggest one; in cases we’ve hired some via Viator - just do you research and sieve wheat from chaff. You can also find guides just outside the sites offering their services - usually for fair prices. We got lucky going this way once; but there’s certainly an element of bet. 

Cairo

Most likely where you will arrive and from where you will take off. Our guide to Cairo can be found in our first newsletter here. Since sending it out, we received some additional suggestions for our next visit: 

• Khufu’s restaurant - For a delicious meal with a view of the Pyramids. 

• Malaika Linens - Egyptian linens and homeware.

Luxor

This is the starting point of the cruise. Much calmer than Cairo, this really feels like old world Egypt. It makes for a nice transition before you head to your river cruise. 

STAY

• Sofitel Winter Palace Luxor - Old school luxury hotel and worth a visit anyway for the history. To stay, unless money is no object, the pro tip is to book the Pavillon Winter Luxor - a smaller building on the grounds, but still part of the hotel so you benefit from the same jaw-dropping gardens outside your window and all amenities at a more reasonable price. 

• Al Moudira Hotel - For a more boutique feel. It’s in the country, avoiding the touristy downtown and looks cozy and authentic. If you don’t stay there, it’s worth the 20 minute drive to go for lunch. They also have their own Nile cruise boat, Set Nefru.

DO

There is much to work through in this area with some of the oldest and most known sites in Ancient Egypt. Prepare yourself for a bit of Egyptian history overload. Also accept that you may not be able to see it all. It’s okay. 

• Temple of Hatchepsut

• Valley of the Kings

• Karnak - Go in later afternoon to catch the magic sunset hour in this space. Words.Can.Not.Describe. 

• Hassan Fathy Mosque - Hassan Fathy was a 20th century architect who promoted the use of traditional building techniques and materials to create affordable and culturally appropriate housing solutions for modern Egyptians. This is a great example of his work and a nice change up from the (amazing) ancient Egyptian sites. 

• Howard Carter House

EAT

• Sofra - For fresh juices and delicious Egyptian stews.  

SHOP

• Luxor is known for its antique bookstores; Aboudy book store near the bazaar was one of our favourites. 

• Beit Al Einy - For Nubian jewellery to lust after. 

• Nobles Art Gallery - one of the oldest stores in Luxor, this gallery specialises in statues and sculptures. If a pharaoh bust is too much for your living room, we brought back alabaster vases. 

Nile Cruise 

This is the real deal - a peaceful immersion in being taken along the Nile, feeling like you have stepped back in time. We almost do not want to say too much! 

Nour El Nil has a fleet of seven dahabiyas - traditional Egyptian sailing boats typically equipped with large sails to catch the wind. Dahabiyas were popular among early tourists to Egypt before the advent of modern cruise ships. Each of Nour El Nil’s boats has a varying number of cabins (our boat had only 6 cabins so it felt very intimate) and the cruise takes five days in total. Each day has one or two activities planned, including ancient sites visits only accessible via the Nile or a sunset walk through a local village. Most nights you can go for a dip in the river as well (don’t worry: there are no alligators on this side of the Nile contrary to popular, myself included, belief). Meals are sumptuous and after every activity you are greeted with a new fresh juice. 

If you want an even more intimate experience you can charter your own private dahabiya through the Moudira Hotel mentioned earlier, Set Nefru. This also looks epic and can be a great idea to gather friends around. 

Aswan

This is where the cruise ends, after five days of bliss. We did not have too long in Aswan as we jetted back to Cairo on the overnight train, but here are some highlights! 

STAY 

• The Old Cataract Hotel - Built in 1899 by Thomas Cook (yep - that Thomas Cook, founder of the travel agency), for Brits and foreigners visiting Egypt. The hotel retains its colonial era feel and has truly special views overlooking the Nile. Agatha Christie even set portions of her famous Death on the Nile in the hotel. Make sure you request to stay in the older wing when you book for the charm of the place. We enjoyed celebratory sunset martinis here after getting engaged! Best memories. 

DO

• Philae Temple - Another historical gem victim of the threat to be submerged by the Aswan dam in the 1960s (with the world-famous temple of Abu Simbel), the temple was dismantled and rebuilt stone by stone in its current location, about 500 metres from where it stood millenia ago! We’d recommend having the hotel or Nour El Nil organise a tour for this as it's very uniquely on an island, and having someone take you there makes life just a bit easier. 

• Overnight train to Cairo - It seems bizarre to list this as something to ‘do’ but honestly the experience of taking the overnight train from Aswan to Cairo is truly an experience. Good luck playing with the online booking system! Do bring snacks, ear plugs, and your own toilet paper.

For our next trip to Egypt, we have the urban oasis of Siwa and the mystical Adrère Amellal hotel on our list! Someone go and please tell us how it is, please and thank you. 

See you soon!